dherrendoerfer / the-robin-3d-printer-project

A simple to build 3D printer with a combined X/Y stage

Copyright (C) 2014,2015,2016,2017 D.Herrendoerfer

The-Robin-3D-Printer-Project

The Robin 3D printers share the goal to be simple to build, based on a simple and repeatable principle, and consist of parts that can be produced with smaller 3D printers.

Robin

A simple to build 3D printer with a combined X/Y stage. This printer can be used with very high accuracy as well as with very heavy print head assemblies, because the print head does not move except in the Z-direction.

( Robin is licensed under Creative Commons CC0 )

Robin Plus

The Rob Plus 3D printer is build with an inverted-H-assembly, not unlike a coreXY setup, but all steppers are connected along a single line, giving the printer a sleek but sturdy frame. Hence the name Robin Plus - the timing belt forms the plus shape. The Z-Axis can be built with either a single or a double-sided crane. The double-sided setup is much less prone to vibrations, while the single-sided setup is very simple and good to use as an educational example.

( Robin Plus is licensed under Creative Commons CC0 )

Bad Robin

Bad Robin is the smaller brother of the Big Bad Robin 3D printer. Both printers share the same parts, only the aluminium profiles and the linear rails change in size - all other parts stay the same. Bad Robin has a very low parts count, a high resolution and can go very fast. It is also very affordable with the 250mm rails version costing around 250 Euros in non-printed parts.

( Bad Robin is licensed under GPLv2 )
The Bad Robin project got its own repo and now lives here:
https://github.com/dherrendoerfer/The-Bad-Robin-3D-Printer

Images

Robin:

Robin Plus:

Donations:
If you would like to make a donation to keep this project and others going you can do so at:
https://www.paypal.me/dherrendoerfer
This helps a lot !

the-robin-3d-printer-project's Issues

Inductive proximity sensor output to Zmax should go through a 10K to 15K resistor

As stated in part 22 of the instructions (https://github.com/dherrendoerfer/The-Robin-3D-Printer-Project/blob/master/STL-Files/Bad-Robin/Build-Instructions.md) the level probe (Inductive proximity sensor) signal output should be connected to the z-max pin directly.

However, this is dangerous:

1. The RAMPS board directly connects the z-max input pin with the uC without further protection.
2. The level probe sensor will deliver 12v as a active high signal, which will destroy the internal protection diode.

See also: https://www.avrfreaks.net/forum/12-volt-input-sigal-atmel-pin-make-logic-high

The signal output of the level probe sensor (usually the black line) should go to a 10K resistor, the other end of the 10K resistor is then connected to the z-max input of the RAMPS board.

This means, instead of

Connect the home switches

    X home switch to Xmin pin.
    Y home switch to Ymin pin.
    Z level probe (output) to Zmax

the description should be this:

Connect the home switches.

    X home switch to Xmin pin.
    Y home switch to Ymin pin.
    Z level probe (output, black line) to Zmax via 10K resistor 

Additionally, the BOM should mention the 10K resistor. BTW: The home switches are also not mentioned in the BOM.

Software Download?

Hi

Danke für das nette Gespräch von vorhin auf der Mini Make.
Aber: Wo gibt es denn die von Dir angesprochene modifizierte Software für den Bad Robin?
Ich hab hier leider keinen Link gefunden.

Danke, Oliver

"ITEM 40mm aluminium profile"?

Hallo (ich schon wieder)

Was ist denn das "ITEM 40mm aluminium profile"?

Ist damit das Profile 8 gemeint?
https://product.item24.de/produkte/produktkatalog/products/konstruktionsprofile-8-1001042794/

Genauer: Das Profile 8 40x40 leicht, natur?

Danke & Grüße
Oliver

BOM List and RAMPs question

Hi Dirk,

Thanks so much for sharing your work. I am totally doing this printer. I put together an excel sheet with some links based on the materials you provided in the docs:

• https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-j1_p4K47khKqKf07HFRd5YxoagGtwe-34txlghNuE4/edit?usp=sharing

I have a couple questions for you:

• What RAMPs kit do you use?
  I am newbie on this and looking for RAMPs kits is overwhelming the amount of versions I found. I am not really sure which one to buy.
• How do you power the printer?

Thanks!,
Mauro.-

z-axis m8 rod: BOM updates

Please excause another update request.

"1x Threaded rod TR8 350mm long"

The actual length depends on the shaft length of the stepper motor. Maybe I have a stepper motor with long shaft, but for my setup, the rod must be only 340mm. I think it would be ok for any shaft length if the rod has only 340mm, so the update is to change the BOM entry to: "1x Threaded rod TR8 340mm long"

"1x Threaded rod nut TR8"

Actually this is a "long nut" with at least 12mm length. It would be cool if this is also mentioned: "1x Threaded rod long nut TR8 with a minimal length of 12mm"

Metal ball is not mentioned.

The metal ball (steel ball) which is placed below the M8 rod is not mentioned. At least it should be mentioned that either a bearing or the metal ball (3..5mm) has to be sourced:
"Z-axis bearing ball solution: 1x Bike stainless steel ball 3.5 to 4.5mm diameter"

extruder heater and fan connection

I am a little bit confused.
As per the video, the extruder heater is connected to D10 and the fan to D9.

In the md file https://github.com/dherrendoerfer/The-Robin-3D-Printer-Project/blob/master/STL-Files/Bad-Robin/Build-Instructions.md the following is mentioned:

Connect the extruder heater to E0
Connect the extruder fan to E1, watch the polarity !

Probably it means the same because the heater of the first extruder is connected to D10. However, calling the first extrude E0 is also a little bit misleading, because the picture here https://reprap.org/wiki/File:Rampswire14.svg calls it extruder 1.

Suggestion is to change the description in the build instructions:

Connect the extruder heater to D10
Connect the extruder fan to D9, watch the polarity !