Comments (8)
...but then... how does it turn off everything except green (high on pin7)
To switch LED off the pin is set to tristate (or as input without pullup). So it is in fact disconnected and the voltage from power supply is not sufficient to reach the resulting flow voltage of the four LED in series.
Pin7 controls the brightness of all LED with the photosensor PD1. The higher the voltage on Pin7 the brighter the LED. To decrease the overall brightness of the LED put a resistor in parallel to R8.
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There already is a light sensor for automatic dimming in place, however even in the "dim" state, the LEDs are still way too bright IMO.
I've mitigated that issue with my sensors by taking a black permanent marker and adding a few layers of paint to the LEDs.
They're still a bit too bright though
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So next step... cut out uC for led 😇 ...and use pins and transistors/relays to control colors with a rule based on epa rules (already followed by original fw) AIR QUALITY STANDARDS (page 4)
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I believe the image below shows the resistors corresponding to the LED pairs (greens are in parallel with two resistors; red and yellow are in series, with one each). So you should be able to tweak their values to reduce the offensive glare. I've popped-off R9 as a quick way to halve the green output. The least destructive alternative might be to shove some paper behind the frosted window.
edit: Yes, a few sheets of paper works quite well. Keep it off the top of the window if you don't want to obscure the light sensor. No need to go removing resistors LOL.
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So next step... cut out uC for led 😇 ...and use pins and transistors/relays to control colors with a rule based on epa rules (already followed by original fw) AIR QUALITY STANDARDS (page 4)
at that point it would be easier to just ditch the original uC board and use the ESP or whatever uC for everything...
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As far as i understant the PIN7 controls the GREEN LEDs and Pin3 controls the orange and red colors. I'am thinking how...maybe the uC ouputs low for turn on red and high for turn on orange? ...but then... how does it turn off everything except green (high on pin7)
My idea is to chop off uC legs 3 and 7 but i don't know what signal to generate to control LEDs individually.
Some suggestions? Thanks
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Hi,
I try the solution from xSnowHeadx (add a resitor in parallel to R8 (22k)),
this resistor will be reduce the brightness when it's bright to the "dark" mode (has only 2 levels, normal or "dark").
But no chance to reduce the "dark mode" darker ...
My question, is there a Pin or an option to cut a ciruit path physically, so the LED will be completly "off".
My idea is to add a switch or relay so the Vindrikning is completly dark in the night (but still woking).
from esp8266-vindriktning-particle-sensor.
There is no simple solution for that. You only can switch the LED completely off by removing the connections of the red and green LED to the positive voltage and of the orange LED to ground by scratching the copper lines and using a dual poled switch to reconnect them on demand.
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Related Issues (20)
- Control LED HOT 4
- After connecting to personal WiFi an AP is still present HOT 2
- Is ESP8266 module (not D1 mini) 5V tolerant? HOT 1
- Received message with invalid header. HOT 3
- Not an issue, you probably need to clean the sensor regularly HOT 4
- 5V mention in the README HOT 3
- Not an issue, low noise mod skews sensor results by ~50% HOT 3
- Can't re-configure D1 after initial deployment HOT 1
- No pm25, ssid, ip values on esp01s
- Not Issue - I need help with code
- Set OTA password HOT 1
- The value does not fall below 200 HOT 4
- Web interface problem HOT 4
- The sensor measure always 0 ug/mc! HOT 3
- Embarrasingly stuck HOT 5
- I don't have MQTT But I need help. HOT 2
- Not an Issue ! juste Topic Name HOT 2
- Seeing odd values on sensor UART
- No mqtt topic is visible HOT 1
- How to See the Data in an App ? & Simple Wiring to ESP8266 HOT 4
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