kejar31 / voronmods Goto Github PK

I've been trying to locate a M12 gland with strain relief (not in US, so DFH isn't all that useful), and have been having trouble finding one - M12 glands seem to be M12 on one side, and M16 on the other.

#6 (comment) refers to PG7, which makes a lot more sense, as the PG-threaded glands seem to have the same thread on each side.

Can you please confirm if PG7 is actually the correct size, and if so, could this be added to the BOM?

I don't know if this is a "me" issue but when I was installing my CB-C2 I had to cut the molex connector off one end of the harness I was using to get it through the cable gland mount as the 4 pin molex connector for the EBB36 won't go through the cable gland mount. So would it be possible to modify the mount to have a cutout in the side of it so once I unscrew the cable gland, the harness will slide in and out through the side? ( I played around in CAD and will test it out when I reprint the parts in PCCF )

Modified Cable Gland.zip

I think a PG9 gland version would be nice, to use bigger cables for the umbilical.

First - great design - love how it integrates into the original SB design. Not an issue, but an addition to the great design.

At first I just pulled the 5V for the fan off the I2C connector but this left the fan on all the time. Having a fan that runs all the time when the printer is powered on regardless of if it is printing was just bothering me. I put together a little cable with an 2N7000 MOSFET that allows me to turn the fan on and off using the PB3 pin on the EBB36. I used a 330 ohm resistor on the gate because it is what I had lying around, but any low resistance will work to keep the gate current inrush low when the MOSFET turns on.

I just turn it on when the hot end turns on:

[heater_fan EBB36]

Cools the EBB36 and extruder driver

pin: can0:AUX0
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50.0

Just in case anyone wants to control the fan.

This MOD is not working with the motor 36STH20.

This concept is done arround all standard part (I think, maybe I'm wrong). If you have some mod example Stealth Burner GALILEO extruder with 36STH20 that mod won't work.

I'm not saying that to complain, but more for information for other people. I think this support is very nice looking and the guys who develop it done a good job.

The Sunon 20mm fan is extremely loud and annoying. Frankly to the point of being unusable. I've also found it hard to get it to work on the probe pins. It works on 5v + GND (always on) but when I move it to 5v + PB9 and configure in klipper, it won't turn on. I essentially can't turn it down at all.

I see that the space is rather tight where the fan currently is, but you could fit a 30mm fan (also easier to source and probably quiter) on the opposite side door/cover (where the Hartk PCB would normally be and where the SB2040 is).

I don't know if it just me but my Gland M12 is not working

I try ti use this part: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07R7759BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is not enough place to screw the second part which support the cable.

Do you think it's possible to know what is your part number or where you get it.

Thx

Edit:

Just saw your part on DFH ... I will try to see what is the difference with my part.

Firstly, I'm loving this project, and am really excited to get it installed sooner than later :) But I think the printability of the models can be improved by adding built in bridging support on the overhanging holes ( see photo attached )

• Would it be possible to have a diagram showing what needs to be cut off the EBB mount? With the integral supports and brims it's a bit confusing.
• Installing the extenders nearly impossible after the gland mount is installed, IMO they should come first in the process
• What voltage is the 2010 fan and where can you plug it? The board only has 2 x 24v fan outs..

IMO the board mount is so thin, it bends all over the place. Possibly the cables could force the board against the screws creating a short. Would it be possible to make it a few layers thicker? That way it would support the gland better and could also use heat insert for mounting the board instead of the hex nut.