rtkaratekid / drolet_bible

The Drolet Bible

Advanced Technique to Climb Harder on Crimps

1. Why this is relevant?
2. Why are crimps hard to use?
3. The problem we're going to tackle today
4. Demonstrating and measuring laxity
5. The technique to address this problem
6. First advantage to this technique
7. Second advantage to this technique
8. How high level climbers use this technique
9. Third advantage to this technique
10. The downsides to this method
11. How to improve at this skill?
12. My question for you

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 2

1. Intro
2. A question for you
3. 1. Go Up
4. 2. Follow the line
5. 3. Recognize what holds are holdable
6. 4. Knowing when to bump or skip holds
7. 5. Level 1 Route Reading
8. 6. Level 1 Try Hard
9. 7. Knowing different hold types
10. 8. Level 1 Memory
11. 9. Knowing how to place your foot onto footholds
12. 10. Breath
13. 11. Knowing when and when not to match holds
14. 12. Level 2 Memory
15. 13. Cross-body Balance
16. 14. Level 3 Memory

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 3

1. Don't Let People Make Excuses for You
2. The First Lesson I learned in Climbing
3. Lvl 4 Beta Memory
4. Being able to recognize different foot placements
5. Learning how to initiate momentum
6. Creating a Mental Measuring Stick
7. Understanding Climbing Terminology
8. The most important skill no one talks about
9. Learning how to read chalk and shoe rubber
10. Clean your shoes
11. Plan for success
12. Having a basic understanding of most techniques

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 4: Intermediate (1 of 3)

1. Intermediate's Intro
2. Intermediate level momentum
3. Knowing when it's easier to jump
4. How to read thumb prints
5. The STEEP learning curve
6. How to size up kneebars
7. Being aware of your arms and legs in space
8. Remembering positions after a fall
9. Knowing different grip positions and their use
10. Learn how to practice
11. Learn how to create tension
12. Clawing vs. pressing with toes
13. Learn how to place heel hooks and toe hooks
14. Finding your center of gravity
15. Learning how to push and pull with your legs
16. Talon Toe
17. Applying opposition and compression
18. Don't pigeon hole yourself with the climbs you try
19. Pulling through holds via position
20. Reverse engineering sequences
21. Where should your thumb be?
22. Should your knee be inside or outside of your arm?
23. What do you want to see me elaborate on?

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 5: Intermediate (2 of 3)

1. Welcome back
2. Control climbing pace to improve endurance
3. How to use different wall angles for better training and technique work
4. How and when to shake out
5. Be coachable
6. How to find good body positions
7. The most important question we ask in climbing
8. Feeling in control while moving
9. Object permanence
10. Using power spots
11. Getting having hips both close and far from the wall
12. Learning how to adapt beta to your own size and strength
13. Learn how to mimic other people's styles
14. Knowing all of the parts of shoes you should use
15. Practicing moves in isolation
16. The thread that connects mantels and slabs
17. Your Sphere of Influence
18. How far should you back flag?
19. When to pull with only one arm instead of both
20. Is chalking up on a climb worth it?
21. When to use different shoes for different performance benefits
22. Is this a weakness or have you just not worked on it enough?
23. My question for y'all

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 6: Intermediate (3 of 3)

1. Welcome back
2. Beware Wanting to look good
3. Overlapping links
4. Controlling skin condition while overheating
5. Learning how to maintain energy with food
6. Test "Bad Beta"
7. Level 2 Try Hard
8. Visualization in third person
9. Knowing when it's better to use only one leg instead of two
10. Brushing Holds
11. Eliminating Hesitation Between moves
12. Plan for success
13. What would a good climber do here?
14. Level 3 Try Hard
15. Using breath control to improve climbing
16. Building your feet
17. Using links to Stress-test beta
18. When to build feet vs. keeping them low
19. When it's the right time to readjust on holds
20. Limb Intention
21. Being able to measure distances from the ground
22. A weighted foot never pops
23. Touch footholds
24. Why you should be memorizing other people's beta
25. Objectively identify danger
26. The difference in Nerves, fear, and effort
27. My questions for you

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 7: Advanced (1 of 7)

1. Who is this for?
2. Embrace the Sidequest
3. Where your momentum should be coming from
4. "why is that there?"
5. "Why is this challenging?"
6. Different grip positions for energy conservation
7. Which grip positions make you more powerful?
8. Grip position change for reaching further
9. Most advanced climbers make this mistake
10. How to find balance with two points of contact
11. An Easter egg
12. What do you want to see next?

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 8: Advanced (2 of 7)

1. Intro
2. The truth about deadpoints
3. Flipping the switch
4. Hold your breath to create tension
5. Using speed to influence tension and relaxation
6. There's nothing special about the grade you climb
7. Harnessing belief
8. Using Fallaway Direction as a tool
9. Fluttering your hand to find balance
10. Team hands
11. When should you make more foot moves?

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 9: Advanced (3 of 7)

1. Intro
2. Composure and power levels
3. Looking ahead to find the answer
4. Overvaluing your strengths
5. Beware the comfort of hard grades
6. How to grab holds better
7. How to step on footholds better
8. Climbing from position to position
9. The 7 go rule

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 10: Advanced (4 of 7)

1. Intro
2. Chunking
3. Don't Get Stuck
4. There Are Rules
5. Sphere of influence Lvl. 3
6. Body style vs. Finger style
7. Jumping vs. Pogos
8. J-swoop vs. Straight line momentum
9. Swooping to increase foot pressure
10. Hiding under holds
11. Climbing's athletic stance

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 11: Advanced (5 of ?)

1. Intro
2. What Weaknesses are worth improving?
3. Beware the Frankenstein Approach
4. Shameless plug
5. Train for where you are, not where you want to be
6. Define what "good progress" means, and work backwards from there
7. An advanced take on shoes. Myths, good practices, and caveats
8. Outro

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 12: Advanced (6 of ?)

1. Intro
2. Checkpoint climbing
3. How to work moves in ways that matter
4. The Front Flag Dilemma
5. Controlling your skin for damage
6. Are you just showing off?
7. Outro

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 13: Advanced (7 of ?)

1. Intro
2. What it means to give better efforts
3. When to stop trying a climb for the day
4. Why warming up as an advanced climber is different
5. The Greatest folly of advanced climbers
6. Have you been here before?
7. Angle of Attack
8. Is this hard or have you not tried it enough?
9. Outro

Rock Climber's Improvement Checklist | Part 14: Advanced (8 of ?)

1. When to stop looking for better beta and try harder
2. Running a climb through you head in first person
3. If you want to climb v10, you have to climb on v10
4. Long arm tension
5. Things can feel bad even when you're doing them right