snakeoilxy / snakeoilxy-3s Goto Github PK

Hi there. I've heard there is a problem with inner y-belt mount, that flex due to y-tensioner.
Do you have any improvements for that case?

This mod declares it is for Kingroon KP3 but it is not compatible with KP3. Only part for Z-axis is compatible.
Kingroon KP3 is 3D printer that has display at angle 45 degree and linear rail is only at Y axis. Y belt is not hidden in the base box. X-end switch is mounted on X-motor cover. It has bowden extruder and hot end is similar to Ender design.

https://support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/kingroon-kp-3-firmware/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TP-N-O6qzs

KP3 was not bad at all. Problem was firmware, I was not able to print reliably over USB cable and there were issues with LCD screen, it often just go off (printer continued to print but display was not functional). I replaced firmware with Unified firmware TH3D and it is much better.

Very useful mod was "locks for bed level wheels", I assume it will be useful for KP3S too. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4893883

I fixed bed leveling M3 screws with tiny spacer and M3 nuts against bed so they cannot move and stay rock solid when I tune bed level with knobs.

Other important improvement was "spring spacer" for Z-end switch, to increase spring press and fix level screw from random movements. I designed my own STL but I lost it. Something similar is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4721140. I am not sure if sizes are correct but shape is similar ;-) I assume such mod is important for KP3S too.

Other spring spacer to fix position level of screw for Z-end switch, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4399769

Other useful improvements was that I drilled two holes (10mm?) to metal X carrier (X/Z) to have easier access to two screws/nuts on 2020 profile; it was not easy to access those nuts without disassembly of whole carrier (removing extruder, Z-wheels, etc), so I drilled two extra holes. I assume this could be useful fix for KP3S too.

Holder of Y belt idler could be improved, to allow some tension regulation. I think there are several options how to do that but I haven't found any good design on thingiverse. I use a simple workaround with M3 spacers, I create a lever against base. This is for KP3 only, KP3S is designed in different way.

To tension X-belt, I printed simple tool https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4377485. I had tension X-belt without any tool in the past and that was possible. It is possible to print some advanced tensionier for 2020 profile (similar is in mod for KP3S) but that is not necessary from my point of view, it just adds weight to unsupported end of X-axis...

X-motor cover replacement, it is lighter. I do not use it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4402820

3D printer geometry is important. To check/fix position of linear rail I use simple tool, like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5787190

To lower power supply noise, I added fan duct silencer, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165310 It lowers noise and protects fan from random part that could enter the hole. I assume this could be useful for KP3S too, nice to have.

Once you insert microSD card to a wrong hole (microSD card is lost in the box with control board and it is difficult to get it out), you will want to print cover for SD slot... ;-) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4184879 Could be useful for KP3S too.

I use simple filament dust filter made from Pipe cleaner wire, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1259470. Nothing to print for this filter and this simple trick can be used with any 3D printer... ;-) They are cheap and you need just one or two. Buy from you local store. These are online, just an example what to look for Amazon AliExpress

I printed wheel for extruder, so I can visually check filament movement and it helps when I load/unload filament. There are many models like this on thingiverse, I think I use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2776404. This wheel is for extruder with bowden, so not useful for KP3S with direct extruder...

Silicone sock for heater block. Cheap upgrade that helps to stabilize heat block temperature. KP3 has heater block of size 16x16x12mm, it is J-head V5. Similar is BP6 (is it improved V5?). I think this upgrade is essential not only for KP3 but for KP3S too. Video for KP3S.

I still use original hotend, Ender style. There are many possibilities to improve hotend but I have not touched it yet. I want to highlight not well known hotend Scolopendra https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2788954, it uses only one fan but part cooling can be mechanically activated or deactivated. Other interesting design is Ugly-but-Light hotend with two fans, hotend inspired by Satsana https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5208879 Another option is Theseus hotend https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5356069

When you carefully examine photo of Scolopendra hotend, you will notice some insert between fan and hotend and that part is not included in Scolopendra design. I assume that part is static pressure booster, something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4776020 I have not tried it yet. If it works then it should be mandatory improvement...

Some Z-probe could be added, this is on my TODO list...

what probe offsets do you use for e axis setup?

Please, standardize rules for filenames of STL files, I see two different patterns, like

1x_tesioner-body.stl and x1_motor-shaft-spacer.stl

I assume that 1x and x1 means that that part should be printed only once. Please, define policy 1x, 2x or x1, x2 and rename all files to comply with that policy... I think that 1x is better than x1. Then filenames should look like this:
1x_tesioner-body.stl and 1x_motor-shaft-spacer.stl (or even fix a typo, then 1x_tensioner-body.stl ;-)

Or prefer 'x1, than filenames should look like this: x1_tesioner-body.stl and x1_motor-shaft-spacer.stl