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View Code? Open in Web Editor NEWGH60 - an open-source mechanical keyboard PCB designed for the community at geekhack.org
Home Page: http://gh60.info
GH60 - an open-source mechanical keyboard PCB designed for the community at geekhack.org
Home Page: http://gh60.info
Research if it causes any signal integrity problems and if it makes sense to do it.
Possible advantage: the back side of the board will look better, because matte solder mask requires post-processing which destroyed the mask on some traces (probably because they protruded from the board's surface) - ground pour should fix this problem.
The short right shift (when there is an Fn on the right) has no pads for an LED.
Make sure this incompatibility with Poker won't cause problems connecting the cable in various cases.
It's too much to the left.
Namely: left shift (short version), backspace, ISO enter, short ANSI enter
Decide about OSHW logo placement. Update GH60 logo.
Make sure no switches (except ISO enter) are rotated 90 degrees
The LED holes are currently too large and the pads are at the same time too thin. Current drill size is 1mm. 0.8128mm (32 mil) should be enough. This will enlarge the pad's annular ring by 0.1mm, which should be enough.
The LED resistors will be soldered by hand in many cases, so their annular rings should be larger, drill sizes can remain the same (0.8128mm).
The switch pads seem a little too large, but they're compliant with the specification, so they can remain as they are.
Examine the board and check if the expansion connector will fit under the main board.
Choose a reset switch the fab can easily provide
eliminate ugly holes and strays
Move the top-left mounting hole so that the board is centered in the case.
Correct other slot-holes if necessary
It would be nice to have connected leds under Fn buttons next to shifts. They could indicate the layer the keyboard is on for example.
Make sure the resistor leads won't interfere with horizontal bars in the plastic case!
After fixing #20 I noticed some headers may be too close to SMD diodes.
It's necessary to check this and move the diodes away.
Connect the WASD block to the controller with 4 resistors.
Add unconnected pads for DIY LED backlighting for every switch.
Enlarge the board by a small bit so that there is more space between some stabilizer holes and board edges
Route signals to the current headers with rows and cols.
Namely: right Fn, backspace, escape. These 3 could be connected to the expansion pins along with the WASD cluster.
Pros: connection on board, the user only solders a resistor; if the expansion port is required, no resistor is soldered
Cons: when the user wants backlighting on all switches, the traces to these 3 LEDs have to be cut.
Check that there will be enough place to fit the expansion board in the case for the current position of the connector
Where there are switches close to each other, the LED pads which are common to 2 LEDs are centered. Make sure it's possible to put LEDs in both positions through the switch and still solder them easily to the board.
Make sure they're correct and fit the plates well.
Decide about a USB connector which the fab can easily get and update the footprint accordingly.
Put the reset switch in the center of the dipswitch window in the Poker case.
Make sure labels don't overlap with holes and components after components have been moved.
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